Monday, July 22, 2013

My Travel Guide to Georgia


Recently quite number of friends asked for some tips about Georgia. Where to go, what to see, etc.. so I decided to make a small guide, which turned out to be very helpful for me, as it saves a lot of time from responding separately to everyone. Hopefully it will be useful for people who are still in the process of planning. :)

How to get to Tbilisi:

Flights:

Wizzair is currently the cheapest option, flying from Warsaw, Katowice, Kiev and few other cities of Ukraine. Take into account that it flies to Kutaisi, the old capital of Georgia, which is 2 hrs drive from Tbilisi. It might be worth seeing actually, as the new parliament is placed there and also few important monuments of the country are in the same area.

Also if you intend to visit Batumi, the main seaside resort, Kutaisi is well placed to get in there also in around two hours.


Pegasus is also very cheap and convenient due to the variety of destinations. It flies in Tbilisi via Istanbul and from most of the European cities you can get there easily.


FlyGeorgia – is a new company just started direct flights from BXL to TBS. Prices are a bit more expensive than Pegasus, but still worth checking, especially if you want to avoid transit flights.


AirBaltic – can also be a good option and sometimes they have good offers.



Accommodation:

As I haven’t really stayed in many of the hotels/hostels cannot be very helpful, but still have a look on the list.

Hotels: (AKA not particularly cheap)

Betsy’s Hotel is quite nice one and I think it mustn’t be expensive. It’s a bit on the hill, but nicely located still and view is great


Villa Mtiebi – nicely located in the old town and hotel looks quite cute as well


Hotel Kopala – I’ve stayed there and it’s nice. If you can afford I totally recommend. It has a bar on the top floor with fantastic view! It is walking distance from Old town and from main areas of sightseeing.


British House – nicely located as well, right in the center of the city. 3 mins walk from the main avenue.


That’s all I can say about hotels.. I didn’t include the main ones like Radisson Blue, Marriot, Courtyard Marriot and Sheraton Palace as those are the fanciest and most expensive ones as well. So I guess if you are willing to pay that much you don’t really need my advice J

Also for more info about hotels and anything basically you can visit the web page http://www.info-tbilisi.com/hotels/


Hostels:

I had a look on some hostels and all I can say is that most of them are naturally located in the city center. So you can have a look yourself


Where to go?

Everything depends on the time you can spend in GE. In any situation even within 3-4 day you can see quite a lot as the country is not really big.

Tbilisi is the must see! Even though you might arrive in Kutaisi or Batumi, try to see the capital. It is the most lively and interesting place I assume.
Tbilisi
Mtskhetais the first capital of Georgia, before 4th century. Few important monuments are there that are part of the UNESCO heritage. It is 10 minutes drive from Tbilisi and you can see it in half a day basically.

You can take minibus from Metro Station Didube (announcements and signs in the metro are in English as well, as you won’t be able to read in Georgian J)

Within the trip, I totally recommend to stop at place called Salobie. It is traditional Georgian place wherein you can get delicious stuff for really cheap.


Gorias you might know it’s a birthplace of Stalin so you might also be interested to visit. In fact you can combine Mtskheta and Gori in a day.

It is 1 hour drive and Mtskheta is on the way. Bus or a minibus is also leaving from Metro Didube.

Stalin’s museum is absolutely worth seeing, I have been there few times and it is really interesting. and apart from the museum you can see a fortress in Gori, which is a walking distance from the museum.

Kazbegi I don’t know how much you are into mountains, but I’d absolutely recommend to visit Kazbegi and see Gergeti church there. It’s 2200 from sea level and a stunning place. Driving will take 2,5 hrs and on the way you will also see Ananuri water reservoir, which is also very nice.

Even if you are in Georgia for three days, include Kazbegi in the list of places to see. You can leave Tbilisi (From metro Didube again) early morning and be back by the evening.
Gergeti. Kazbegi
Vardzia and RabatiIf you are more than five days in GE, I recommend to go to south of the country. Vardzia is a cave city from 13th century and it is worth seeing. On the way, you can also stop in Akhaltsikhe and see also visit Rabati fortress, which is newly renovated and you need probably 2 hours to see it.

In Vardzia you can stay in local hostel/guesthouse, which will cost you around 15-20 Euro (all inclusive)

Batumi – is the main summer resort and during summer it’s really nice. Especially in July, August and September. So take the train from Tbilisi (will take around 5 hrs) and go there if you have around week.

Also you can arrive there from Turkey, as it is close to the Turkish border. Several flights are also operating there, including Pegasus.

Svanetiif you will have time and if you appreciate mountains, this is the place to go. You can find the highest populated village there, amazing mountains and experience local architecture and cuisine. Trip to Svaneti, requires proper planning. So in case you decide to go that far, drop me a line and I can help in planning.
Ushguli. Svaneti
Eastern part of Georgia is also very nice. This is the agriculture center of the country and Georgian wine mainly comes from Kakheti region.

There are several nice cities, especially Sighnagi and Telavi. Both are 2 hours away from Tbilisi. Both are interesting because of architecture and .


Tbilisi

As for the bars and places to go out I can have quite a list, but will suggest my favourites.

Café Galery – It is my favourite place to go out during the week end (mean Friday and Saturday. Sometimes Sunday can be nice as well.. depends on). It is the most lively place currently in the city.

During the day it’s normal bar and by the evening it turns into more like a club. especially on week ends. During Summer you can enjoy bottle of house wine (for like 4 Euro) and they have terrace as well. Once you enter during the day ask them to take you to the terrace, otherwise you might not find it yourself J

Mtkvarze –  This is an alternative place on the river side, same kind of situation as in Galery and same category of people. It’s a bit out of city center but Taxi will cost you like 2,5-3 Euros :D so in case you are up for late fun on week end, after 3 am. go there.


Tbilisi
Bars: Few main areas in the city where you can go and experience different kind of things.

  1. Perovskaia Street – It is close to Metro Rustaveli and Rustaveli Avenue, the main street of the city. It is like a neighbourhood wherein many bars are located. Cannot particularly recommend any of them, but bar Dublin, London and few others offer live music almost daily basis so you can just crawl around. For the sake of live music I recommend to go there once at least during the week. after 8-9 pm.
  2. Tabidze Street: It is right next to Freedom Square, beginning of Rustaveli avenue and Old Town. You find the Old City Hall building and it’s on the right side of it. You can find few of my favourite places there were you can have nice meal and enjoy the ambiance. Go to ‘People’s’ (mainly for food), ‘Divani’ and ‘Downtown’ for Coffee.
  3. Shardeni Street/Erekle Street – these two streets are mainly for tourists and posh local ppl J quite expensive for Tbilisi but average for normal European price. However you cannot avoid it. They have nice open air cafes. It is right in the old town and I personally go there a drink frequently in Summer. Places to consider ‘café Kala’, ‘KGB’. The rest you can discover J


Traditional Georgian Food:

If you can genuinely enjoy something in Georgia this is food and wine. Being completely objective here, variety of food is amazing :D


In the city center you can find Network of “Shemoikhede Genatsvale” (the one at Pushkini Street and on Leselidze as well. I think the new one has been opened also at Metro Rustaveli area.

Try ‘Saperavi’ – Georgian wine for sure. As for food, the absolute must is “Khinkali’ (5-6 per person). we mainly eat it with beer or vodka. ‘Khachapuri’ – there will be different varieties of Khachapuri according to the region, but try as many of the m as you can J. Also try ‘Badrijani nigvzit’ (eggplants with nuts), IDK if you eat meat but try “Mtsvadi” as well.

http://info-tbilisi.com/shemoikhedegenatsvale/, apart from this place you might find “Machakhela” network as well. it’s like a network as well all over city center.


Places worth visiting mainly because of the view:

Café Flowers: adr: 1, D. Megreli St (Avlabari Ascent) http://info-tbilisi.com/cafeflowers/

Sky bar: Adr: 22 Metekhi St. Tbilisi http://info-tbilisi.com/skyybar/


Also another bar, which is nearby the fortress Narikala and the ropeway is called '144 Footsteps'. Gorgeous place specially at night!

Certainly there are much more things to see and do, but cannot list all of it. But hopefully this post will be a good start to discover Georgia from the perspective of local.

 Pleasant journey! 




Saturday, August 14, 2010

How to travel almost for free

How many of you have heard about carpooling/car-sharing? I knew that something like this existed in some European countries, but never thought that it could work for me as well. Travelling by car almost for free from one to another country is indeed a great opportunity for wanderers like me and seems like many people around me are using it quite efficiently. I myself have discovered this service recently and enjoyed it so much that I cannot refrain from writing about. Have to say that I liked the idea of using sort of new means of transportation from the beginning, but as I had to be in Vienna at least by 9th in the morning, i was not sure how trusty it was. Finally had no choice as train was extremely expensive and there were no cheap flights operating from Frankfurt to Vienna/Bratislava. I won't go through the details of the trip, just wanted to state that it cost only 25 Euro (300% cheaper than train) and was absolutely amazing experience. Probably not every of them is going to be the same, but I recommend it to everyone who is going to have a trip within Central and Western Europe. 

For more information/particular route visit the web page  http://www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de/

Sunday, July 11, 2010

SNCF and an example of service

I actually have no time for blogging now, as I’m at Reims Forum journoing and writing some semi serious stuff on a damn complicated French keyboard :), but if I refrain from putting down memories now then the details of this trip will slip from my mind. So, what was so special in this totally random route? Due to the reason that I started my trip from a God's forgotten place in one country and ended up in another, but in the meantime I accidentally passed through cities which I could never ever imagine to get in the list of my visited places. But the thing what I would like to draw attention is SNCF.
French National Railway Corporation which amazed me with its service even though I was two hours late on the venue and despite the fact that I ended up with relatively uncomfortable trip with hell of a hot bus without air condition (wherein I spent 1,5 hours instead of 30 minutes comfortable trip with TGV). So, the case was that, due to some technical problems my 11th train in a day stopped in a totally random French city and the passengers were allocated to the bus which was certainly late on the schedule. Quite normally I was angry and my irritation was rising as time passed. I should mention that French people (at least out of Paris) were amazingly friendly and as they figured out I was a tourist with insufficient knowledge of French they started helping me out with advices and were trying to calm me down, even though I was really enjoying the views of central France and didn’t care that much about the train fuck up.
What has happened finally was that the bus stopped on another train station and the staff of SNCF brought us boxes of water and food, which was totally unexpected for everyone. Apart from this, they have sent taxis for each and every passenger, in order to get them to their places of destination. Hence, I got mine as well from Loan to Reims which was basically 50 kms and I presume it should have cost me at least 50 Euros. 
I don’t know the price of thisimage maintainance” act, but the fact that they respected passengers to that extent was indeed a nice gesture from SNCF.
I had uncountable fuck ups during my travel history, have been late on couple of planes (once even missed it), not to mention busses which I missed quite many times, but the level of respect towards customers was the highest ever experienced.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Fiesta all around

A little reason for partying, one common thing that can be easily found among the people of South Europe is a party culture. The way they make fun, the way they rest during the week days... Yeah, Fiesta is all around.

June 23 is a Festival of San Juan (Saint John) and here in small Catalonian cities everyone is off to party. The festival, which is also called "verbenas" meaning open air fiestas, is a celebration of the summer solstice. This is when the region and certainly Barcelona prepares to welcome the hundreds of thousands of tourists that visit every year. It takes place on the eve of Saint John's day - a public holiday in Catalonia. Being off from work the following next day, this is a night when the people don't hold back in having fun.

Here in a tiny, but beautiful city of Tarrega everything is sunk in noise, people dance and sing, fireworks and of course drinking...

A small piece of video, which I've recorded during the early evening on the main square of the town.


Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Travel Diaries

After moving to Catalonia for a while, I have an excellent opportunity to examine some "Catalonia isn't Spain" claims and have to admit I faced more than I expected.

After a week of observation, I can say that Barcelona is the least non Spanish city in this very autonomous community. People tend to use Castilian more than Catalan, which is not a case in most of the other big cities, not to mention small villages all through the region.

"Spanish team is playing? ah, I don't care!"
"Eurovision? Why should I watch it, my country isn't participating there!"

These kind of statements can be heard all around Catalonia...

But, it is definitely a huge topic to go through and I sort of got interested in this Spanish-Catalunyan story, will write about some other interesting stuff soon. but for now the picture which interested me a lot.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Week end in Hayastan...

Visiting Armenia was a plan, I could never manage to implement. Procrastination is definitely a bad thing when it comes to travelling, but I usually love making spontaneous decisions. So, with my wanderer friends I've headed to the Bus Station. Certainly, I had expectations about the possible conditions of the Bus/Minibus, but what I've experienced seemed completely unbearable from the beginning. Although we had no choice in terms of transportation and I had to use that stinky and inconvenient minibus. Thus we bought our tickets and left for Armenia for the week end...

What can I say, when you travel to some place, you always have some pre-arrival thoughts and I have to admit that my expectations were rather low. Apparently, most of the people around me were not really excited about their memories after coming back from Armenia and they were quite cynical about my travel plans. In the beginning when we travelled through mountains, wasn't feeling excited about the cities on the way, but Yerevan is indeed a way more different story. Despite the fact of "Architectural Failure" as my friend called the city after glimpsing the panorama, we all agreed that the city is surpassingly better off in some extents than Tbilisi.


Cleaner Streets: The capital of the country and all the cities we have stopped or passed by were definitely cleaner than Georgian ones. Interestingly, streets are also more convenient for disabled people on wheelchairs. 

Seat belts: As our driver remarked, police is quite strict on using seat belts and I've not noticed any driver violating the law. Certainly Libertarians might claim that fastening seat belt is a personal choice of a citizen, but I do think it still should be regulated by the government.

City traffic: One of the most surprising parts of the whole trip was traffic. Unlike Tbilisi, drivers always stop when pedestrians cross so called "Zebra". One cannot even dream about that in Tbilisi, Georgian drivers are indeed the worst when it comes to the respect of pedestrians.

Open air cafes: The most amazing thing in Yerevan is a quantity of open air cafes. I'm trying to reminisce other cities in Europe, but I've never seen so many open air spots as in Yerevan. Seems like Armenians are fond of hanging out a lot and absolutely loved these sort of fancy bars all around the city. Also the fact that city center was full of people at 3 a.m. (then we went to sleep) was quite astounding. You can barely find anyone in Tbilisi after midnight, which is not a case in there. I should also remark that Armenians tend to be very gender divided... I was observing the chill-out spots all the time and barely saw mixed couples sitting and hanging out together. It is not even balanced in a way to be more or less equally occupied by female and male groups. What I've noticed was a very male dominated society, wherein one can see lots of guys sitting, talking and drinking coffee for a long and very few mixed couples. That was indeed a bit bizarre for me. It is certainly not deriving from the fact that there are too many openly gay men in Armenia, just I blame dogmatic culture in framing the society in such a way.


Gay friendly city? I do not have that much information about the LGBT groups in Armenia, but I was really surprised by seeing gay couple holding hands and walking down the street. One can never find the same in Tbilisi. (at least I've not seen that). As I've heard there is even an official Gay club in Yerevan and in this extent they seem to be more tolerant then Georgians are.

Envoy: Well, I should have probably started with the hostel as it was a first place we've stepped in Yerevan. Youth hostels are not common in this region, but the one, wherein we perfectly accommodated was truly the best I've ever stayed in. As I was told afterwards this hostel "Envoy" got some awards and if there is any international awarding group, it definitely deserves 4/5 stars.

That was more or less positive part of the trip and overall impression was rather good. However, I have to mention that most of the buildings in the city are tasteless, built up with grey materials. That is why my friend called it “A city of architectural failure” and I presume all these gigantic buildings and strong soviet influence clearly describes the mentality of the people. Country seriously lacks infrastructure and it is easy noticeable all over Armenia. Corruption is also a serious problem and first time in my life, I've experienced that on myself when the train conductor directly asked for bribes for changing a place in the train. But generally country is worth visiting and interesting enough to spend a week end in the streets of Yerevan


Sunday, May 9, 2010

From Lisbon to Tbilisi...

Wanted to write something about the Europe Day, but after going through pictures of mine, decided to post some of them I've snapped during the last couple of years.


Most of the pictures are taken by me and few of them by Ann Tsurtsumia.


Click to enlarge!

 Portugal - Lisbon and Porto, Summer 2008.







Spain - Summer 2008/2009



France - EU Presidency 2009 





Austria - Vienna November, 2009












Slovakia -Bratislava, February 2010.









Hungary - Budapest, November 2009



Czech Republic, Prague 2008



















Poland - Summer 2009



Lithuania - Vilnius, May 2006




Latvia - Riga, Summer 2009


Estonia - My spiritual homeland!





Finland - Helsinki, Spring 2009



Sweden, Stockholm - Spring 2009



Belarus - Minsk, Winter 2006






Ukraine, Kyiv 




Albania - Winter 2009





Greece - Autumn 2009


Georgia - Tbilisi,  Spring 2010




Europe Day 2010, Tbilisi. Georgia